EL QUESO DE VIDIAGO CONSIGUE EN MORCIN EL PREMIO MEJOR QUESERIA DE ASTURIAS 2014 .-
lunes, 22 de septiembre de 2014

 

 

El Vidiago original

La Quesería Collera de Vidiago recibe el Premio al Meyor Quesu d`Asturies 2014 en la XXVI Feria de los Quesos Artesanos de Morcín

El domingo, catorce de septiembre, era galadonado con el premio al elaborador del Meyor Quesu d`Asturies de la XXVI Feria de los Quesos Artesanos de Morcín, la Quesería Collera de Vidiago (Llanes). Esta distinción fue otorgada por la Hermandad La Probe, que delegó la elección en un jurado compuesto por los expertos miembros de la Cofradía de los Quesos del Principado Armando Álvarez, Guillermo Díaz, José Sánchez-Ocaña y Rafael Secades, y premió no sólo la calidad de todos y cada uno de los quesos elaborados por la Quesería Collera de Vidiago, sino también su flamante y profesional trayectoria desde que la familia Collera, de la mano de Baltasar allá por el año 1940, comenzara a producir su particular y exclusivo queso de Vidiago de leche de vaca, semicurado y con formato aladrillado de en torno a un kilogramo de peso.

 

Con el paso de los años sus hijos tomarían las riendas del negocio aplicando todo su empeño y buen hacer a las dos vertientes principales para todo buen producto. Por un lado en la elaboración, capitaneada por Tomás, por otro en la comercialización, donde Manolo desarrolla todo su potencial y además garantiza la presencia de la Quesería Collera en prácticamente la totalidad de ferias y certámenes queseros y agroalimentarios de Asturies.

 

El Vidiago abrió fronteras con Quesería Collera hace ya décadas, convirtiéndose en mascarón de proa de los quesos de la costa oriental asturiana. Elaborado en la aldea de Riegu, en una ubicación que coquetea con el Cantábrico y los bufones de Arenillas a un lado, y con la montaña de Sierra Plana, el Ídolo del Peñatú y el Valle Oscuru al otro. El tradicional Vidiago de Quesería Collera es el pionero y original, el auténtico: y no lo digo yo, sino que lo dice el propio queso con sus efluvios mantecosos, su textura cariñosa y su sabor limpio y agradable.

 

Quesería Collera tampoco permanecería impasible a las nuevas tendencias gastroqueseras. Aparte de su clásico e identificativo Vidiago de vaca en formato aladrillado, también elabora lingotes de cabra y oveja, pequeños quesos cilíndricos y una torta de vaca curada en aceite que merece un punto y aparte. Muy curada, con un amarillo penetrante y envasada en el propio aceite de su maceración, en boca se convierte en un bocado exigente, con notas picantes derivadas de la acción del zumo de oliva en el propio queso.

 

 

 
LOS MEJORES 50 QUESOS PARA LOS GASTRÓNOMOS DE USA/ INCREIBLE SOLAMENTE UN QUESO DE ESPAÑA
lunes, 14 de abril de 2014

Los 50 mejores quesos del mundo de 2014 según The Keeper

 

La publicación The Keeper, situada en la ciudad de Nueva York, publicó el pasado mes de febrero un artículo numerando los 50 mejores quesos del mundo y para ello programaron una cata en la que degustaron el mayor número posible de cada rincón de la tierra.

 

Como el pan, el vino y el café, el queso ha capturado el interés no sólo de los consumidores sino también de los productores y distribuidores, que se han encontrado con nuevos productos que el mercado ha aceptado y valorado de buen grado.

 

En esta lista solo tenemos a un queso español frente a una media de 3 nombramientos de Francia o de Suiza, y no será por la calidad de nuestros quesos, el sabor y la variedad precisamente. El mundo del queso sigue siendo en parte desconocido por la sociedad, probablemente si preguntatáramos al de al lado "dime 10 tipos de queso" sólo se acordaría a lo sumo de cinco, por ser los más comercializados y publicitados.

 

Pero existen tantos tipos, productores grandes y pequeños, en todo el mundo, que es complicado quedarse con todos ellos. En este post trataremos de mostraros un poco más sobre ellos.

 

Categoría nº 1: los quesos originales americanos

1. Appalachian (Meadow Creek Dairy,Virginia)Appalachian

2. Dunbarton Blue (Roelli Cheese,Wisconsin)Dunbarton-Blue

3. Fuzzy Wheel (Twig farm, Vermont)

Fuzzy-Wheel

4. Beecher´s Flagsheep (Beecher´s Handmade Cheese, Washington)Beecher

5. Estero Gold Reserve (Valley Ford Cheese Company, California)Estero-gold-Reserve

6.Tomme Dolce (Andante Dairy, Califonia)Tomme-Dolce

 

En esta primera clasificación nos vamos a centrar en dos de ellos, el Appalachian y el Tomme Dolce describiendo sus atributos.

  • Appalachian: elaborado a partir de leche cruda de vaca y prensada con un salado con una duración de un día y con un porcentaje de materia grasa comprendido entre el 40% y el 50%. Su producción es estacional y sólo se lleva a cabo cuando las vacas se alimentan de pasto natural. Es ideal para cocinar pero tiene un sabor suave con un toque picante.

  • Tomme Dolce: creado a partir de leche de cabra con un período de curación comprendido entre los 3 y los 6 meses, tiene un regusto final a frutos secos y su corteza ha sido lavada con aguardiente de mermelada de ciruela y su sabor es dulce al final. Se puede acompañar con un buen pan e incluso con mieles (como la de azafrán).

Categoría nº 2: los quesos tradicionales americanos

 

7. Winnimere (Jasper Hill Farm,Vermont)

Winnimere

         

8. Cagliata (Caputo Brothers Creamery, Pennsylvania)

Ricota

9. Ameribella (Jacobs and Brichford, Indiana)

Marieke

10.  Landaff (Landaff Creamery, New Hampshire)

Ameribella

11.Marieke Super-Aged Gouda (Wisconsin)

Landaff-Creamery

12. Pleasant Ridge Reserve (Uplands CheeseCo, Wisconsin)

Pleasant-Ridge

13. Txiki (Barinaga Ranch Cheese, California)

Barinaga-Txiki

14. Bay Blue (Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese, California)

Bay-Blue

15. Alpha Tolman (Jasper Hill Farm,Vermont)

Alpha

En esta categoría vamos a analizar por un lado los quesos de la granja Jasper Hill y por otro el Landaff:

  • Alpha Tolman: elaborado a partir de leche de vaca con un período de curación entre 8 y 11 meses está inspirado en los quesos europeos del norte. Ideal para maridar cervezas de trigo. Posee un porcentaje del 40% de materia grasa y un sabor propio de la cebolla caramelizada y la mantequilla. Se puede usar para hacer fondues, derretido sobre patatas y carnes o a solas acompañado de algún tipo de mermelada (como de cebolla por ejemplo).

  • Winnimere: se trata de un queso cuya corteza ha sido lavada con cerveza Lambic y que por tanto posee un sabor fuerte con diversos matices como el de madera y ahumado. Posee un 45% de materia grasa y su período de curación es de 60 días aproximadamente. Puede acompañarse con crackers, con fruta o fundido con tostadas de pan.
  •  
  • Landaff: se trata de un queso creado siguiendo la tradición de los galeses, a partir de leche de vaca con un 45% de materia grasa. Su período mínimo de maduración son de 60 días. Similar al cheddar, tiene un sabor a yogur fuerte y es adecuado para acompañar con frutos secos, pasas, frutas frescas o manzanas.
  •  

Categoría nº 3: los quesos europeos

16. Brabander Goat Gouda (P.Bajos)

Brabander-GoT

17.Försterkäse (Suiza)

Forstercase

18. Stichelton (Inglaterra)

Stichelton

19. Cabricharme (Bélgica)

Cabricharme

20. Jersey Blue (Suiza)

Jersey-Blue

21. Ticklemore (Inglaterra)

Ticklemore

22.Challerhocker (Suiza)

Challerhocker

23. 1605 Manchego (España)

Manchego-1605

24. Zimbro (Portugal)

Zimbro

De los quesos europeos destacamos el Manchego y el Cabricharme:

  • Manchego: elaborado a partir de leche de oveja pasteurizada cuya maduración mínima es de 30 días. Está dentro de la categoría de "Fermier" que significa que la leche que se utiliza es propia y que son los más valorados en el mercado entre los especialistas. Además pertenecen a la Denominación de Origen de La Mancha y cumple absolutamente todas las normativas para garantizar en mejor producto a los consumidores.

  • Cabricharme: a partir de la leche de cabra se elaboran estos quesos, con una materia grasa del 45% y un período de maduración de 6 semanas. Adecuado para fundir en sandwiches o platos de pasta acompañados de una buena cerveza alemana, pero también con frutos secos como los higos y las ciruelas.

Categoría nº 4: los quesos de la región de Allgäu (Alemania)

25. Adelegger

Adelegger

26. Chiriboga Blue

Chiriboga-Blue

27. Anton´s Limburguer

Limburguer

28. Sternschnuppe

Sternschnuppe

Entre los quesos de la región de Allgaü:

  • Adelegger: con período mínimo de maduración de 6 meses, este queso posee un 45% de materia grasa y se suele acompañar con cervezas elaboradas a base de trigo. Posee un sabor final cremoso a nuez y ese ideal para compañarlo con pan integral.

  • Sternschnuppe: con un porcentaje de materia grasa del 48%  y un período de maduración de 2 a 3 meses, posee un sabor fuerte y picante. Suele servirse con crackers acompañadas de higos o uvas, se puede fundir para darle consistencia a una salsa e incluso para acompañar en sopas o cremas de verduras.

Categoría nº 5: los quesos locales de Nueva York y Connecticut

29. Kunik (Nettle Meadow, N.Y)

Kunik

30. Lorenzo (Meadowood, N.Y)

Lorenzo

31. Miranda (Vulto Creamery, N.Y)

Miranda

32. Mozzarella (Di Palo´s, New York)

Mozzarella

33. Melville (Mystic Cheese Company, Connecticut)Melville

 

34. Ricotta (Salvatore Bklyn, New York)

Ricotta-Salvatore

 

35. Hooligan (Cato Corner Farm, Connecticut)

Hooligan

  • Kunik: elaborado a partir de leche de cabra y de oveja con un porcentaje de materia grasa del 70%. Cremoso y suave al paladar, con un período de maduración correcto puede llegar a ser casi líquido y por tanto directamente untable en galletas o puede ser acompañado con frutas.


  • Mozzarella: el queso se elabora de forma artesanal mediante el cuajado en pequeñas bolas que una vez formadas, se dejan reposar en agua salada. Posteriormente se llevan un fumador y mediante el ahumado en madera de cerezo, se procesa aproximadamente durante dos horas y media. Este tipo de queso va muy bien con verduras asadas y platos sin carne.


Categoría nº 6: quesos peculiares, ingredientes particulares

36. American process

37. Beer CheeseBeer-cheese

38. Bel PaeseBel-cheese

39. Cheese CurdsCheese-curds

40. Pimento CheesePimento-cheese

 

Categoría nº 7: los quesos más famosos que sus productores

41. Küntener Reblochon (Suiza)

Kuntener

42. Casa Madaio Calcagno (Italia)

Casa-Madaio

43. Hervé Mons Camembert (Francia)

Hervé-Mons

44. Cabot Clothbound Cheddar (Vermont)

Cabot-clothbound

45. Le Meunier Roquefort (Francia)

Le-Meunier.Roquefort

46. Tome d´Aquitaine (Francia)

Tome-D´Aquitaine

47. Torus (Vermont)

Torus

48. L´Amuse Gouda (Países Bajos)

L´Almuse


  • Casa Madaio Calcagno: elaborado a base de leche de oveja posee un porcentaje de materia grasa del 38% con tiempo de curación de 12 meses. De textura compacta y sabor fuerte pero dulce, presenta matices afrutados del Grana Padano con notas a nueces y fondo cremoso. Adecuado para todo tipo salsas de pastas excepto las que acompañen al pescado, para fundir y en una tabla de quesos.

  • Cabot Clothbound Cheddar: con un período de curación mínimo de 12 meses, 45% de materia grasa, textura suave y cremosa en la boca. Su sabor es dulce y puede servirse con crudités o fruta para un tentempié.

Categoría nº 8: quesos de contrabando, difícil encontrarlos

49. Époisses (Francia)

Epoisses

50. Mimolette (Francia)

Mimolette

  • Mimolette: a partir de la leche de vaca se elabora este queso que requiere un período mínimo de 22 meses para ser un curado extra y apreciar todos los matices que nos ofrece. Con una materia grasa del 40% este queso posee un gusto a avellana, es fuerte y picante.
 
EL SALÓN GOURMETS 2014 REPLETO DE QUESOS, UNA DELICIA PARA LOS CONSUMIDORES .-
sábado, 08 de marzo de 2014

La revolución del queso en el Salón de Gourmets

El sector artesanal del queso en España comienza a vivir su propia revolución, semejante al vino hace 20 años. En los últimos tiempos, un grupo creciente de jóvenes queseros bien formados, han comenzado a elaborar productos únicos y auténticos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

La mejora tecnológica y profesionalización del sector ha originado esta transformación que ya se empieza a manifestar allende nuestras fronteras. Sus quesos de leche cruda, elaborados y afinados perfectamente conquistan los paladares más exigentes, compitiendo en presentación y packaging con los quesos más famosos del mundo.

 

Queso como el Rey Silo, que utiliza José Andrés en sus restaurantes de Nueva York; el Cabrales Cueva Teyedu de Pepe Bada, ganador absoluto en el concurso del MAGRAMA y que hizo furor en la Feria de Bra el pasado septiembre, en Italia, la más importante del mundo; el Manchego artesano 1905 que ha sido elegido como uno de los 50 quesos mejores del mundo por la revista New York Magazine; la retorta de Finca Pascualete que ha conquistado el mercado americano y europeo con gran éxito, entre otros, evidencian lo que se aproxima en el mundo del queso en los próximos años. Asimismo, la creación de nuevas variedades de formatos, texturas y sabores contribuirán a aumentar el patrimonio quesero y gastronómico en nuestro país.

 

España es un país de queseros: se elaboran más de 150 variedades y su consumo, según informa el MAGRAMA, continúa creciendo (+2,2% en 2013), con una media de 10,4 k por habitante y año. La diversidad orográfica y climática del país propicia la existencia de distintas zonas ganaderas de las que deriva la variedad de quesos autóctonos españoles.

 

El Inventario Español de Productos Tradicionales clasifica los quesos en función del tipo de leche (cabra, oveja, vaca, mezcla), de pasta (blanda, sin prensar, prensada, azul…), las texturas (blanda, semiblanda, semidura, dura), el cuajo (animal o vegetal), y otros parámetros que pueden encontrarse juntos en muchas variedades de quesos.

 

Azules (de pasta veteada o con mohos –penicilium- en su interior). Cabrales, Picón Bejes-Tresviso, azul de Valdeón, el asturiano La Peral, Blau d’Osona, y otros azules catalanes, los tupís, de poca producción.

Frescos: En general, y a diferencia de los franceses y europeos, son dulces, lechosos y menos untuosos debido a que son coagulados en poco tiempo. Hay dos tipos: el burgos, muy húmedo y con breve tiempo de conservación, y los frescos ácidos, el de Cebreiro (Lugo) y el Queso de Babia y Laciana (León).

De cabra: Elaborados con leche de cabra; (quesos del Tiétar, Sierra Morena, Las Alpujarras, Serranía de Ronda…) son los más conocidos.

De oveja: Existe una gran variedad de este tipo de quesos elaborados con leche de oveja (manchego; Idiazábal, Troncal, queso de La Serena, Zamorano, etc.)

De vaca: Se producen principalmente en Galicia, Asturias y Cantabria -la excepción es el menorquín de Mahón-,  siendo los más conocidos Tetilla, San Simón da Costa, Afuega’l Pitu, La Peral, Oscos, Los Beyos, Cóbreces…

Mezcla: La mayoría de los quesos tradicionales españoles se elaboran mezclando leche de vaca, oveja y cabra: La Mesta, Valdeón, Ovín, Tenerife, Tupí, Herreño, Ibérico o los Quesucos de Liébana se elaboran con las tres; otros como Flor de Guía, Villalón, Mallorquín, Serrat, etc., emplean vaca y oveja; de vaca y cabra son el Servilleta y Cassoleta valencianos, el Mató catalán, Peñamellera, Cebreiro, del Valle de Narcea, etc.; de oveja y cabra son los quesos Tronchón, Grazalema, de La Gomera, entre otros.

Tortas: Extremadura, Andalucía, Gran Canaria junto con algunas zonas de Portugal, son las únicas en el mundo donde se producen este tipo de tortas elaboradas con el cuajo procedente de las flores del cardo silvestre. Caracterizadas por su cremosidad y un cierto regusto amargo, se funden al paladar del que las prueba. Entre las más conocidas se encuentran la torta del Casar y la de Barros, elaboradas con leche de oveja, y la torta extremeña, de cabra.

 

Muchos de estos queseros artesanos procedentes de todo el país participarán en el XIV Gourmetquesos, que tendrá lugar en XV Taller de los Sentidos Gourmets (TSG), con una oferta única donde el público podrá degustar, conocer las novedades, compartir con los productores e incluso comprar sus productos en su punto óptimo de consumo, además de otras actividades relacionadas con este producto tan versátil.

 

En este espacio los expositores cuentan con una Sala de Catas donde ofrecer degustaciones de sus quesos más singulares y Dehesa de los Llanos tiene programadas degustaciones en la Sala de Catas del Salón de Gourmets. Asimismo, por primera vez en el TSG los visitantes podrán armonizar los mejores quesos nacionales con las marcas de cervezas extranjeras más importantes en Cheese and Beer, actividad organizada por José Luis Martín.

 
LOS QUESOS DE ASTURIAS SEGUN EL DIARIO EL PAIS
martes, 25 de febrero de 2014

Locos por el queso asturiano

De Pravia a los Picos de Europa, diez queserías artesanas para visitar y degustar

 
 

Quesos en proceso de fermentación en una cueva de la villa de Tielve de Cabrales (Asturias). / Gonzalo Azumendi

 

La mayor mancha quesera de Europa en cuanto a variedades, el país de los 40 quesos, no podía por menos que beneficiarse de la moda que vive actualmente la gastronomía. Certificaremos en Asturias la revolución en torno al queso extendida por toda España –similar a la que conoció el vino hace tres décadas-, que engloba, a la vez, elaboraciones tradicionales y quesos de autor avant-garde.

La mayoría de las explotaciones están situadas al norte del Principado, aprovechando los jugosos pastos de los valles fluviales que vierten al mar. Mil detalles aprenderemos sobre este universo de lactosidades. Quien sea fan de las queserías, hará bien en agregar a favoritos estas 10 empresas amigables.

 

01 Suave regusto caprino

LA CHIVITA, BUELLES (PEÑAMELLERA BAJA)

 

Pocos quesos artesanos de cabra hay tan seductores al paladar, tan refinadamente sencillos, como los que manufactura desde hace 33 años Jesús Gutiérrez -gran experto de quesos astures-, junto con su hijo Manuel, quien acaba de heredar la responsabilidad del negocio. La vivienda, de arquitectura montañesa, a 4 kilómetros de la Autovía del Cantábrico -dirección Potes-, incorpora el característico corredor (balconada corrida) de influencia cántabra. Significa que el confín fronterizo está a tiro de escopeta.

 

El queso La Chivita se moldea a partir de leche cruda de raza murciano-granadina, óptima por sus elevados porcentajes de grasas y proteínas, sin que su corteza enmohecida haya experimentado tratamientos químicos. Hay a la venta quesos de oveja, de cabra y mezcla de vaca y cabra; de 500 y 900 gramos, con dos meses de maduración, y de 2,5 kilos, cuyo afinado oscila entre 4 y 6 meses. Al contar con ganadería propia, otra opción consiste en adquirir carne de cabrito lechal.

 

Preguntar después por la senda a la sauceda declarada monumento natural. En el recodo denominado La Concha, con pozo salmonero, el río Deva adquiere un aspecto risueño, entre piragüistas y pescadores. De subyugante plasticidad. Ya que estamos en Buelles, nos esperan las recetas caseras del restaurante La Sauceda (617 42 49 98). Reabre el 1 de marzo.

 

02 El quesero en su laboratorio

REY SILO (PRAVIA)

Elaboración artesanal de los quesos Rey Silo, en Pravia (Asturias).

 

Esta empresa puntera recuperó con forma troncocónica el sabor antiguo del afuega’l pitu (literalmente, ahoga la garganta), queso de coagulación láctica a partir de leche cruda de vaca afinado con levaduras naturales. Las fermentaciones de esta delicatessen son largas, y adopta tonos asalmonados al añadir pimentón durante el amasado. El chef Alain Ducasse mostró su perplejidad al catarlo.

 

Para este diálogo con los mohos Geotrichum candidum y Penicillium –razón de la complejidad de aromas y sabor- quién mejor que el biólogo vasco Ernesto Madera, antes humilde investigador que quesero mediático. Madera cultivó el afinado en Francia y supo injertar este arte en la alta gastronomía. Son varios los chefs que introducen Rey Silo en sus cartas, el más cercano Fermín Balbona en su local del centro de Pravia. Allí ofrece langostino envuelto en panko con una espuma de rey Silo, y solomillo al Oporto con crema de Rey Silo.

 

En la quesería aseguran que sus Besos del Rey Silo afinados para Casa Gerardo son los quesos más pequeños de España. Las primeras semanas de vida es cremoso, como la torta del Casar, pero sin el aporte del cuajo vegetal. Interés añadido presenta este 2014 el queso Rey Silo Máximo, de dos kilos, ocho veces más grande que un afuega’l pitu normal. Buscar la quesería, junto con las cavas de maduración, en el polígono industrial de Pravia. Es visitable, cata incluida, por 2 euros. Reservar con dos semanas de adelanto.

 

03 Maestro afinador

PEPE BADA (TIELVE DE CABRALES)

Proceso de curación en la cueva del Teyedu, en Tielve de Cabrales.

 

Los afinadores como Bada cuentan con sus manos y sus cinco sentidos por todo instrumental. Pepe, primeramente, habrá calado y seleccionado las piezas en la quesería que Andrea Fernández, la hija de su mujer, tiene en Rozagás, empresa que en 2013 se hizo acreedora del primer premio Alimentos de España que concede el Ministerio de Agricultura, Alimentación y Medio Ambiente.

Bada los transporta después dos kilómetros en su mochila hasta la cueva del Teyedu, pura mitología cabraliega, una de las más altas (1.200 metros) de cuantas se dedican a este tipo de curación en Europa.

 

En su empeño, Pepe Bada consigue lo mejor de sí en cuanto a textura, sabor y cremosidad. Está claro que la flora que alberga la cueva del Teyedu ofrece rasgos diferenciales con respecto a las cámaras frigoríficas. Ni para limpiar los mohos y posibles levaduras (a mano) hay nada comparable al agua clara que gotea por las estalactitas. El queso asciende al Teyedu duro, seco, y cuanto más tiempo permanezca dentro, más cremosidad mostrará al abrirlo. Luce vetas azules homogéneas, y en boca resulta muy fundente, con escasa astringencia y un retrogusto muy largo.

 

Transcurren 6 o 7 meses antes de que esta joya vea la luz de Tielve (Cabrales), donde Bada recibe a la par que despacha (avisar en el 985 84 59 31), a razón de 30 euros el kilo. La mitad cuesta el queso Pepe Bada, de entre 3 y 4 meses de maduración. Interesan las cajas para regalo.

 

04 Nata de relamerse

LA FONTONA, SAN MARTÍN DE LUIÑA (CUDILLERO)

Productos de la quesería La Fontona, en San Martín de Luiña.

 

Lo familiar en La Fontona es concomitante con la tradición, y así, desde 1948, el apellido Álvarez se ha hecho valer en todo el Occidente asturiano. José Manuel Álvarez se organiza con su familia para hacerlo todo, desde la recogida de leche hasta la asistencia a los mercadillos, ampliando últimamente el catálogo de productos y mejorando la calidad.

 

La nata vaqueira natural está hecha con mimo, como la flor de leche que es. Si la nata habitual de los supermercados usa leche esterilizada con el 35% de materia grasa, la de La Fontona se eleva hasta el 50% y opta por la pasteurización, lo que mantiene mejor las características naturales de la leche. Además, la nata tradicional adopta una textura cremosa comparable a la de la mayonesa (las industriales son más líquidas). Esa misma nata, batida en la mazadora, adquiere la cualidad de la mantequilla.

 

José Manuel recomienda el maridaje entre la nata o el requesón con el chocolate o el cacao, aunque tampoco es mala idea montar con nata el arroz con leche (más ideas en su Facebook). Resulta difícil resistirse a sus requesones (uno de ellos desnatado) y a su queso ahumado de leche de vaca, graso, ahumado con leña de abedul y un mínimo de 30 días de maduración.

 

La quesería está próxima a la carretera costera: a 1,5 kilómetros de Soto de Luiña sentido San Martín. Abre de lunes a viernes, de 8.00 a 14.30, y los sábados de 10.00 a 14.00.

 

05 Requesón que enamora

QUESERÍA ABREDO, ABLANEDO (COAÑA)

Requesón artesanal de Abredo.

 

Lo cataremos en casi todos los restaurantes de los contornos, con miel de Boal o frutos rojos. Qué ejemplo acabado de requexon, el que distribuye en terrinas la familia de Alfonso Rodríguez desde su montañosa y galardonada quesería, que lleva por nombre la toponimia en bable de Ablanedo, la aldea en que se encuentra ubicada, con vistas a la rasa costera y el puerto de Ortiguera (precioso de visitar).

 

La leche es de su propio rebaño vacuno. El requesón, de preparación tradicional con leche pasteurizada, es un dechado de técnica: desde el escurrido de la leche cuajada –clave en su preparación-, al momento de la coagulación láctea (sin cuajo). Untable, de sabor suave y tez marfil, es un ingrediente ideal para postres y tartas de queso. En la quesería Abredo también comercializan exquisito arroz con leche, así como queso semicurado de vaca, mantecoso y de pasta elástica.

Llamando con antelación (985 47 37 33) se realizan visitas guiadas. Al ser productos muy perecederos (sin conservantes), es recomendable comprarlos el último día de estancia en Asturias, no sin antes conocer el castro de Coaña.

 

06 Queso de pastores

QUESERÍA GUMARTINI (CANGAS DE ONÍS)

Covadonga Fernández en la cueva de la majada de Gumartini, en Cangas de Onís.

 

La esencia más pura de los Picos de Europa late en el queso gamoneo del puerto, el más cotizado de Asturias (38 euros el kilo; la mitad si procede del valle) ya que solo cuatro productores están adscritos a esta denominación de origen protegida, y restringida a los municipios de Cangas de Onís y Onís.

 

Covadonga Fernández y su marido, Manolo Valle, hijos, nietos y padres de pastores, son los dueños de la majada de Gumartini, situada cerca de la carretera de subida a los lagos de Covadonga. A partir de junio (el parque nacional no permite subir antes los rebaños) se puede visitar a Covadonga en sus cabañas produciendo y atendiendo con simpatía a los visitantes. Produce quesos de leche de vaca, cabra y oveja que ahúma con madera de haya durante 25 días, para finalmente permanecer un mes dentro de la cueva, donde adquiere los tonos rojizos.

 

Por esta fechas, hay que encargar por teléfono (985 94 40 60), y acto seguido se bajan los quesos de la cueva, cubierta de nieve, y se recogen en la casa familiar en Intriago (Cangas de Onís). De la cueva al consumidor, sin cámaras de por medio.

 

07 Casín: extinguido y recuperado

QUESERÍA RECIEGOS, CAMPO DE CASO (CASO)

Marigel Álvarez rodeada de gorollos de casín en el complejo Reciegos, en Campo de Caso.

 

Marigel Álvarez es una simpática emprendedora en el idílico parque natural de Redes, cuya lucha por la denominación de origen protegida del queso casín, resucitado en 1989, le valió la medalla de plata de Asturias.

 

Por la mañana se puede ser testigo, en el Complejo Reciegos, del proceso de amasado y rabilado en la curiosa máquina de rodillos. Con forma de disco, el casín está prensado y salado a partir de leche cruda (y muy consistente) de vaca asturiana de la montaña, también llamada casina. “Mantecoso, con cuerpo y fuerza, un poco picante. Con retrogusto; oloroso y perfumado” es la nota de cata que apunta Marigel. Al ser tan potente en boca, es buena idea sentarse junto al parque infantil para degustarlo bañado en dulce de manzana.

 

El Complejo Reciegos dispone de agrotienda de productos autóctonos, como embutidos de jabalí y venado, así como miel de brezo y castaño. Todo se completa con el estupendo hotel rural donde Marigel sirve apetitosos desayunos.

 

08 Los Beyos, gusto artesano

QUESERÍA LA COLLADA, CIRIEÑO (AMIEVA)

Proceso de elaboración en la quesería La Collada, en Cirieño.

 

Decir La Collada es sugerir un viaje al interior recóndito de las montañas del Oriente asturiano. Horizonte verde, montaraz, del concejo de Amieva, que contrasta con la ausencia de explotaciones lecheras al carecer de cuotas lácteas. Camino de Pen, una aldea de sobradísimo encanto, saldremos de la carretera para atravesar el caserío de Cirieño. Enfilaremos una cuesta ciega y torceremos a la derecha para descubrir la quesería.

 

Aurora González, cabeza visible, comenta sus seis variedades, en su mayoría pequeñas y cilíndricas, desde quesos frescos hasta con un año de maduración. El de Indicación Geográfica Protegida Los Beyos -con leche de vaca, cabra y oveja- es un queso de cuajada láctica como el afuega’l pitu, con un punto de acidez que va desapareciendo al tiempo que madura. Más cremosos y suaves son los quesos elaborados separadamente a partir de leche de cabra, oveja o vaca.

 

No es fácil encontrar la variedad tres leches en Asturias. El de La Collada se elabora con leche cruda y puede comprarse entero (casi tres kilos) o al corte. Atienden todos los días, salvo los domingos, cuando puede verse a la familia en el mercado quesero de Cangas de Onís.

 

09 Con aroma de refinamiento

QUESERÍA LAZANA (LAS REGUERAS)

Planta de elaboración de la quesería Lazana, en Las Regueras, que se puede visitar.

 

Lo definitorio de Lazana es la investigación y la originalidad por parte de David Fernández, leonés afincado en una aldea perdida del centro del Principado, donde ha sabido aplicar con sobresalientes resultados el saber artesanal aprendido en Francia durante sus estudios de Economía. Para sus productos contó con el asesoramiento del maestro quesero José Luis Martín, gracias a lo cual veremos sus envoltorios albinaranjas o albicelestes en muchas tiendas gourmet.

 

El elegante Geo, elaborado con leche cruda de vaca, es técnicamente difícil de conseguir al no prensarse la pasta. En su corteza natural lavada (y comestible) se crea una flora específica que hace afinar el queso durante 60 días. Por su mantecosidad hace digno paralelo con el queso Munster. Buen acabado y mejor presentación.

 

El Lazana Afinado, semifresco de leche pasteurizada, cuenta con pasta blanda y 20 días de maduración. Quien lo desee puede comprar y visitar las instalaciones. También se puede reservar mesa en el restaurante La Manduca (985 79 95 22), a dos kilómetros de la quesería, conocido por sus cachopos “mini y XXL”.

 

10 Ahumados de Pría

QUESERÍA INÉS GRANDAS (LLANES)

Queso puro de cabra de los hermanos Inés Granda.

 

Cuando se trata de paladear tablas de quesos en Asturias es raro que falte el ahumado o el tres leches elaborados por los hermanos Inés Granda en su explotación ganadera de la parroquia marítima de Pría.

 

Sus orígenes se remontan a 1938. Fue este uno de los primeros productores a los que el mercadillo de aldea se les quedó pequeño, pasando a comercializar sus productos por el resto de Asturias. Con 4.000 litros diarios de extracción de leche, los artesanos consideran a Inés Granda una empresa industrial, y los industriales, más bien artesanal.

 

El de Pría es uno de los quesos ahumados punteros en el Principado. Enseguida comprendemos el porqué de la máquina que produce humo limpio de cenizas, no por combustión, sino por fricción de la madera de abedul. Fino, cilíndrico, usado profusamente en cocina, en especial durante los gratinados. El tres leches, de cuatro kilos, es otro must que combina leche pasteurizada de vaca (40%), cabra (10%) y oveja (50%). ¿La novedad de este 2014? El queso azul cremoso, con leche de vaca a la que se añade nata de oveja y de cabra. Los citados, además del queso puro de cabra, pueden comprarse en la tiendina. La quesería es visitable los fines de semana.

 
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